Saturday, April 23, 2011

Bangkok - Cont.










I am pretty funny about my trips abroad. When I arrive, and the night before departure, I give myself a little luxury, a nice meal, good service, etc. The rest of my trip it is all about local foods, and preferably street vendors.








In Bangkok, water plays such a huge roll in everyday life, that I always seem drawn to have my meals as close to the river as I possibly can. And there is no shortage of local markets and street vendors near or on the river.













The famous "floating market" is a good place to start. There are two floating markets in Bangkok. The first is small and near the city. It was set up as a tourist destination and you can arrive there by long boat from the piers near the Shangri-La and Mandarin.





The "Original Floating Market" is about an hour and a half outside the city. The difference between this and the touristy market in the city, is it is an hour and a half away!






They are both a hot, crowded, touristy destination hawking goods that are anything but the authentic fare that was sold in this manner decades ago.



With all that being said, it can be a wonderful time, haggling for trinkets, fighting over pennies, and getting a sense for how goods were traded in the past.


The best part about the floating market, the food! While you are dripping with sweat trying to shave a few cents off the price of the $5.00 silk pillow case your are sure will go well on a chair at home, vendors float by, slicing and grilling, meats, fruits, skewers of this and that, and plenty of beer to wash it down.


Now after the work out of the floating market, and it feels like a work out, the focus must be lunch at a river side restaurant.
These establishments always amaze me. The food is not expertly prepared, but that's not the point. I have never tasted food so vibrant, so crisp and clean. Each flavor smacks you in the face, but never over powers. I also love the relaxed atmosphere. While you are waiting for your ordered dishes to arrive, plenty of vendors will row up in a long boat and offer you some treats to tide you over. Don't be shy, it is completely acceptable to order off of these mobile food stands while waiting for your meal. Never have I encountered such a polite, and giving country and people.




So accept the sweat, the heat, the sun-burn that will greet you the next morning and enjoy some of the most intensely fresh cuisine, that bursts with unique flavors in every bite. And don't forget, you must wash it down with plenty of Singha, which after multiple tastings became our beer of choice over the more malty Chang.

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Monday, April 18, 2011

Bangkok Day - 1




Some places just stick in your memory, and give you a feeling that you can spend a lifetime trying to recreate. Be it the atmosphere, the drink, what you ate. Many years ago I was able to stay at the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, drink at the Bamboo bar, and listen to some great Jazz.


I have always wanted to go back, and on this trip I was able to share the time with my wife. Its not often you can recreate a memory or feeling, but to actually blow the previous experience out of the water! Speechless.


We started our evening with dinner at the terrace restaurant. The food is decent, and over priced for Bangkok standards, but the view is beyond amazing. Watching the boats ferry passengers across the river while weaving in between barges and long boats in almost complete darkness is just a mesmerizing ballet, on the verge of disaster!



After dinner, there is only one place to go, the Bamboo bar. Order a Thai-ito. Yes, it is a cheesy over priced version of a Mojito, but it is a fabulous drink. Thai Whiskey, (an almost 50/50 taste blend of rum and Makers Mark) Muddled Lime, Lemon Grass, Ginger, topped with soda water!


There is nothing that could make the bar, and the drink a better experience... oh wait, a cigar! Right next door is one of the best Habanos shops in the world. I don't know if it is the humidity of Thailand, or the way the wait staff cuts and serves your cigar with a pleasant smile, but I have NEVER had a better cigar experience!





The quaint shop has a good variety of difficult to find cubans along with the favorites most everyone is looking for. For myself a Bolivar, but for Manda's first cigar, of course a Cohiba. Nothing like spoiling her with the best!

www. pacificcigar.com/eng/location/th/stores/shop1.php


So settle in, let the staff expertly light your Habanos, sip on your Thai-ito and wait for the Jazz band to show up! The perfect way to kick off a trip to Bangkok.

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Monday, April 11, 2011

Shanghai: Day 2


Every city needs a good hangover cure. I wish I had needed one after my night out in Shanghai, it was pretty low key.


But I still headed out to find some good grub. My destination, street vendor Baozi.


Baozi are steamed bread style dumplings, filled with roasted pork, mushroom, veggies, etc.


Dip them in some spicy sauce, with a bowl of millet porridge and you are starting your day off right.


No Baozi in sight this morning, but we did find some excellent duck filled steamed wonton dumplings, and wonton soup.


My wife asked me how I knew they were filled with duck?

The 20 whole roasted ducks lying on the counter, heads and all are a dead give away!

Sinan Lu, The French Concession



This area is enjoyable because there is actually an effort to preserve the existing architecture, but in doing so most of the spaces are filled with the usual crap found in every mall in America, I guess they got to pay the bills!


But if you take the time to walk off the main drag, beyond the snooty rich girls carrying their LV and onto the side streets some unique shops and sights can be found.


Shopping really isn't my thing and I am always on the search for authentic food. As the evening aproached, I unfortunately, found myself eating at a mediocre French style bistro. Not my choosing, and un-impressed, I needed to find a cocktail quickly, and anyone who has traveled in China knows a good cocktail is a total myth!


I had resigned myself to thinking I would head back to my hotel to concoct something from my rooms mini-bar when I came accross a random sign for "Apothecary".


I recently read an article about a bar of the same name in Beijing so I dragged my wife to the 4th floor of an office type building to see if my optimism would pay off.


As we exited the elevator on the 4th floor, we were greeted by a smiling staff, partial owner Marcus Lopez and some Bob Marley tunes. The San-Fran native opened the location in Beijing first and had now moved on to China's most vibrant city.


The space was low key and relaxed. Huge glass windows line an entire wall and give you an amazing view of Shanghai's skyline, as long as you get a clear night!


Ok, ok, onto the important shit! The drinks. They were good.

New York good? Sorry no, but they are almost there, give them a little time and they will iron out the details.

The pegu cocktail could use a little egg white foam, the gin and tonic a bit too tonic'y. But I won't complain, it hit the spot and all the while enjoying some great vibes and hanging with my bride.


Last call..... Brooklyn Lager, what more can you ask for!


Apothecary, It is worth searching out.


Sinan Mansions, bldg 1, 4/F, lane 507, Fuxing Zhonglu, Luwan District. 86-21-33689419

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